Part 1: Mitch Absher Style for miles ~ Missionary of West Coast surf culture

Mitch Abshire, a renaissance man in the modern longboard scene and a key figure in West Coast surf culture, visited Japan for the first time in three years to promote his brand, BEACHED DAYS.

He has previously founded CAPTAIN FIN CO. and served as Joel Tudor's sidekick and contest director for the recent VANS duct tape event. He also runs CAPTAINS HELM in Oceanside, while in his private life he moved to Tennessee with his family and is living the ideal dual life. In this interview, we take a look at his past, which he has rarely spoken about until now, and his private life.

First, please introduce yourself.

Mitch Absher, 45, currently lives in Columbia, Tennessee. He divides his time between his home and CAPTAINS HELM's Oceanside, California store. He also works for VANS and produces products for BEACHED DAYS.

Do you remember when you first started surfing?

Absolutely. My first boogie board was actually a boogie board. I was at T Street in San Clemente, California, one summer with my mom, and we dropped our bags off at the beach and went to the concession stand to get some snacks. When we got back to the beach, someone stole my boogie board.

It wasn't until I was about 9 or 10 years old that I started surfing seriously. All my cousins were surfing, and they asked me if I wanted to surf too. I started out on a shortboard, but an older guy in my neighborhood had an 8-foot board, so I borrowed one from him and started riding a longer board. It was easier to catch waves. I lived in Mission Viejo in Orange County at the time, so he would take me to nearby surfboards like Doheny and San Onofre.

I'd go to the beach at 7am and pick up at 6 or 7pm when the sun was setting. I'd just surf all day and hang out with friends on the beach. I was probably in the ocean four or five days a week. This was the beginning of my beach experiences, my BEACHED DAYS.

I believe that's when your career as a longboarder began, but how did you meet the late Donald Takayama?

It all started when I saw Joel (Tudor) riding his longboard at San Onofre. Of course, Joel was amazing even back then. He was 12 years old and better than anyone on the beach.

And then I met Corey Schumacher, a guy my age who I met on the beach, and his whole family was riding Donald's boards. I got introduced to him through the Schumachers, and then when I was about 13 or 14, my family moved south to Carlsbad in San Diego, and I started working at Donald's factory in Oceanside.

My parents would drop me off at the factory around 6 or 7 in the morning, then I'd sweep the floor and pack up the surfboards. Then, from 11am until 2pm, I'd just watch him shaping. I was just standing there in the shaping room, but I heard a lot of great stories. It was fun just hanging out with him. Of course, at the time I didn't fully understand his ideas or how he worked, so I just watched, but it wasn't just old stories; it was definitely an incredibly valuable time where I learned about culture and history from a predecessor. The best part was working for Donald. Looking back now as I'm older, it was a great time.

The kids he supported were known as Goofy's Joel Tudor and Regular's Mitch Abshire. I imagine kids riding longboards was pretty rare back then.

It started with Joel, with Schumacher, Eric Sommer and myself as the kids supporting him, and then Devon Howard, Darren Redingham and Mikey DeTemple joined later on.

Back then, unlike now, only older guys rode longboards. It had no cool image at all, and it was treated the same as rollerblading (laughs). The contests in California were always the same people, and there were only about 10 kids in total.

I'm definitely not the type to surf contests. I enjoyed surfing with kids my age in competitions, but the people I surfed against on the PSAA (amateur tour) were mostly aggressive surfers in their 30s and 40s. I started surfing at 14, but the vibe was so different I quit after two years. Meanwhile, Joel was winning contests against adults.

I think the idea of the contest is great, but I just didn't enjoy it. I was partying a lot at the time, sleeping on friends' couches, and whatever else was fun was fine.

It was a time when if you were good at surfing you could become a professional surfer, and it was common for professionals to enter contests.

My local friend Benji Weatherly and Taylor Steele's Momentum crew weren't contest-focused surfers either. I think watching them helped me see surfing from a broader perspective. I later joined Takuji Masuda's TYPHOON project because, similarly, I didn't see surfing as just a contest. I always thought that if I tried to pursue competitions alone, I'd get bored, so I thought it would be better to go in a different direction.

Same with duct tape. It's an anti-contest concept. It's completely different to the WSL surf contest format.

You've been involved with Duct Tape as a director since the very first event. Tell us more about it.

Duct Tape was Joel's idea, and it first started as a way to enter a VANS contest in Virginia in 2010. From the next New York, they started running it themselves, and everyone stayed in the same lodge, hung out, and surfed. Even now, they stay in the same area and hang out together during contests.

They're doing something completely opposite to what's been done in previous competitions: no interference calls, invitation-only, a different venue each time, and different people except for the finalists. Everyone is open-minded and sharing ideas, and you never know what the next competition will bring. I think the fact that they're including men and women and young people on the platform and showcasing them is a big difference from when I was competing. People my age, like Tyler Hazzikian and CJ Nelson, have appeared before, but basically, one of the concepts is to bring in a new generation.

I can't say what will happen in 2023 yet, but we are planning to hold contests in two or three locations. The Asian region will probably be held the year after next.

What did you think of the Japanese Duct Tape event held at Kugenuma Beach in the fall of 2019?

It was amazing. Everyone was having fun, including the audience, and the guys who were there were having so much fun. The smiles said it all. Of course, I wish the waves were a little bigger, but that's not the point. It's a contest, so the waves can be small anywhere in the world.

Has the longboarding scene changed since duct tape?

I don't know, but there's no doubt that Joel has changed the current longboard scene. Previously, 2+1 longboards with side fins were mainstream, but with him, the scene suddenly shifted towards single fins. Even though they're all lumped together as single fins, they're not what they used to be, and if you look at Robin Kegal and Tyler Hazzikian, their styles are completely different. Longboards have some progressive aspects, but they still have a strong traditional side.

One thing that's changed is that a younger generation is shaping longboards. When I was growing up, kids didn't build their own longboards. With Duct Tape, people bring their boards to contests and then leave them at local shops for anyone to try.

 

WSL, what do you think about the current longboard competition scene?

It's great that Devon is involved. He pushed for a more traditional direction, and he was successful. He's no longer with the WSL, but hopefully the new director will continue his direction. I'll be watching closely to see what happens. I love the duct tape format, but not everyone loves it. There are now three or four WSL events to decide the World Champion, and I think it's good for longboarding to have a platform for that.

Who has been the biggest influence in shaping your style so far?

Probably Donald Takayama and Herbie Fletcher. Longboards fell out of fashion in board design in the '70s, and the '80s and '90s were a dark period when no one paid any attention to them. Without them, the longboard as we know it today might not even exist. Donald continued to build longboards even during the heyday of shortboards, and Herbie pushed the boundaries of longboard surfing with his progressive style. And they continued to release longboard movies that no one else was making.

That's amazing. He didn't care what other people thought! He pushed and pushed his own path at a time when longboarding was considered a non-issue in the mainstream. To me, longboarding was punk rock, but that's because Herbie was punk in his own right. I think being around those two was a huge influence on me.

A lot of kids in California get into surfing in their early teens and get really into it, but by the time they turn 20, they often start to feel burned out. When I met Mitch about 25 years ago, you were in LA, not San Diego, and you didn't even have your own board, let alone a wetsuit, right?

Yeah, I was only surfing a few times a year. I'd borrow boards and wetsuits. I think it happens in any sport, but I was burned out. I remember the great surfers Greg Noll and Phil Edwards quitting surfing. I wasn't a surfer at their level, of course, but I was partying and drinking all night and not really caring about anything.

Since becoming a Christian, I've changed my lifestyle, learned to be grateful for everything, and got back into surfing. I enjoy surfing with a different perspective than I did as a teenager, and now that I have a family, I cherish every day.

You moved from California to Tennessee a few years ago to live a dual life. But why Tennessee?

A lot of people have moved to the California coastline, and it's clearly too crowded now. I wanted a large plot of land for my family, but that's difficult unless you're wealthy. Looking for a decent amount of space would mean being inland, about two hours from the ocean. So I started thinking about other places, other states, less crowded, quieter, more peaceful places.

I live in Tennessee, six hours from the ocean. It's a completely different lifestyle from before. I live on a small farm and raise cows, horses, goats, and chickens. That said, I also have CAPTAINS HELM and work for VANS, so I'm in California one to two weeks a month. I'm enjoying the contrast between the country and the beach right now. I love surfing, but that's not all. I'm getting older, so I don't mind living a relaxed life in the countryside, raising cows, and spending time with my family.

I went to Miyazaki on this visit to Japan, and I think living in Tokyo and Miyazaki is a similar idea. They are two completely different lifestyles, with Miyazaki having beaches and a slower pace of life. But I also like the city, so it's good to have both. That's why I'm happy with my current lifestyle.

How was this Japan tour?

After Tokyo and Osaka, I went to Miyazaki in the countryside, and the waves were amazing. The country-style atmosphere was relaxing, and I felt like I was back home. The OCEANSIDE RANCH where I stayed was also amazing. The location was great, and even though it was a short stay, I was able to enjoy an outdoor-themed vacation style. I've actually been to Japan countless times, but this was my first time back in about three years. It's true that it was a very emotional experience.

About the previous BEACHED DAYS magazine, what was the concept behind it?

I used to work with Takuji, and I was really influenced by what he was doing with SUPER X MEDIA magazine. What he was doing back then was very inclusive, and covered a wide range of topics, not just surfing, but skateboarding, snowboarding, and even street art. I personally love print media, and I thought it would be interesting to express that worldview in BEACHED DAYS.

My lifestyle has been at the beach since I was a kid, and the mixed culture of surf and skateboarding also originated from the beach. The culture surrounding surfing has a long history, from Bruce Brown's films featuring dirt bikes to Herbie skateboarding in swimming pools in the 1960s. Surfing is also connected to the art world.

How involved were you with the magazine? If you were to republish BEACHED DAYS, what would you do?

It was produced by three people: a designer, a writer, and myself. I came up with the layout ideas, selected the interviewees, and did the setup myself. Ideally, it would be published once a year in magazine or book format these days. However, in recent years, print media and magazine culture have fallen into disuse, and no one buys paper magazines anymore, so I think it would be difficult.

About the BEACHED DAYS brand.

BEACHED DAYS is an spin-off of the magazine, and now produces products related to surfing, camping, and everyday lifestyles. From beach chairs to blankets, the concept is to create products that are useful for trips and the outdoors, not just for surfing. We will continue to provide products that are fun, easy to use, and allow you to experience adventure with ease.

What's next for BEACHED DAYS?

I'm planning to go on a surf trip with JJ Wessels and make a short film about the adventurous lifestyle. I'd like to finish it by next summer and then go on tour in the fall to show it off. I'm looking forward to it.

Tell me about the surfboard you usually ride.

My main boards are three Christenson boards. My main board is a Bonneville, ranging in length from 9'8" to 9'10". My big board is a Chris Craft, a 10'6" thruster (tri-fin) with glass-on, which is Skip Frye's preferred style. I also have an 11'2" single fin. My shorter boards are Huntsmans with 7'10" single fins. I also have Flat Trackers with tri-fins, ranging from 7'6" to 8'2". I'm 6'2" (188cm) tall, so longer boards suit me well.

During your recent visit to Japan, you were trying out the new Mitch model (MITCH OG MODEL) at a beach break in Miyazaki.

The board I rode this time is an updated version of the previous Mitch model. It features a moontail and uses what's known as a classic rocker. The Bonneville, which was later modeled after it, has a reverse rocker and a square tail, but the dimensions are almost the same. While the reverse rocker keeps the nose in place and makes it easier to control, the rocker on the Mitch model is better suited to slow, weak waves and allows for more drive in turns. The moontail makes it easier to sink the tail, which helps initiate turns.

You were also creating some distinctive sign drawings during your recent visit to Japan. Where does that unique style come from?

I guess I look at the art and methods of Ed Templeton, Barry McGee and Thomas Campbell and express myself in my own way. They are all great artists, of course, but I just enjoy writing.

Finally, a message to everyone in Japan.

I hope everyone can have more fun at the beach. BEACHED DAYS' slogan is HAVE FUN! I think sometimes people take surfing and other things too seriously, but it's important to have fun, whether it's going to the beach, adventuring, camping, or whatever you're doing. If you're not having fun, you're doing it wrong. You only live once, so you might as well have fun!

Mitch Absher: Born in 1976 in California, USA, currently living in Tennessee. He rose to prominence as a stylish longboarder in his early teens. He founded CAPTAIN FIN CO. and served as contest director for the VANS duct tape event. He also runs the unique lifestyle shop CAPTAINS HELM in Oceanside, and is a West Coast surf culture evangelist, producing the BEACHED DAYS brand.

Interview: Kawazoe Mio: Born and currently living in Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture. Graduated from the University of California, San Diego, surfing club. With a father who was a first-generation Japanese surfer, Kawazoe encountered overseas culture from an early age. From the early 1990s, she lived in San Diego and Malibu, California, for 10 years, experiencing the longboard revival. After returning to Japan, she became editor-in-chief of ON THE BOARD and worked on GLIDE and other magazines. Using her unique network, she has introduced real California logs and the alternative surf scene to Japan.

Portrait and Water shots: by u-skee