9th Special Edition SAN ONOFRE - California log surfing sacred place

San Onofre, commonly known as SANO , or locally speaking, San Onofre, is a surf spot famous for its Yururu wave breaks, loved by longboarders, located in the northern tip of San Diego in the lower part of Orange County. Sano is also known as California's Waikiki, but why is it the sacred place for California log surfing? While Trestles, which is located right next door, is full of young shortboarders riding the waves and the atmosphere is as intense as a competition, Sano is free and cheerful, and everyone, young and old, can enjoy the beach as they please. I'm enjoying my time. It would be a waste to just surf here and then go home right away. Once you've finished your round, it's best to grab some drinks and snacks from your cooler bag and enjoy a relaxing day at the beach.

From Japan, it takes about an hour and a half to drive south from LAX (Los Angeles International Airport), the gateway to California, on the 405 and 5 Freeways. Of course, don't forget to travel at different times during the morning and evening rush hours.

Sano is open for surfing all year round, but the best season is summer when swells from the southern hemisphere arrive and the waves are consistently large. The bottom is a flat reef, so even if there is some wind, the surface remains relatively clean and you can enjoy surfing. Basically, you can surf at any tide regardless of the tide, but when the tide is low, you'll need to be careful not to get hurt by the rolling boulders in front of you.

California has cold currents, and the water is so cold that Japanese people would shiver in just their trunks, so they basically can't do without a full suit all year round, and no matter how warm it is, springs and tapas are essential.

Currently, you can get a pass for all California State Parks (California Explorer Annual Pass) by paying $ 15 for day use ( one day admission) or $ 195 for the year. As one of 280 state parks in the state, it is fully equipped with restrooms, showers, trash cans, bonfire spots, and chairs and tables. Overnight camping is prohibited, but the area offers the perfect environment for picnics and day camping with friends while surfing.

(Captain Mitch Abshere)

It is said that the history of surfing began about 100 years ago when the Tressols and San Onofre breaks were discovered, but after that it came under the jurisdiction of the military, and former President Richard Nixon set up a residence in front of the Cottons at Tressols. Approximately 50 years have passed since former President Ronald Reagan authorized the park to be used as a state park when he was governor of California.

There are three main breaks: The Point, Old Man's, and Dogpatch from the parking entrance. In recent years, hot and lively loggers have gathered in front of Ford's, between The Point and Old Man's. Mitch Absher, who moved to Tennessee, shows up when he returns to California, as well as local stars such as JJ Wessels, Tyler Warren, Corey Colapinto, Alex Knost, and CJ Nelson. It's a common sight here to hang out and see amazing super riding performed right in front of your eyes. Although Sano is a world-famous surf spot, it still has a shared ride spirit, and the good old California surf culture is still being nurtured.

(JJ Wessels)

This time, we spoke to JJ Wessels, who can be said to have honed his unique style at San Onofre. Why have people been drawn to this place for so long?

``The waves are fun, and you can park your car right in front of the break.In recent years, the sand on the beach has disappeared due to waves, but the original California scenery that has remained unchanged for decades remains. If you bring drinks and snacks, you can spend the whole day relaxing on the beach while taking breaks.It's a safe place to spend time with children and families.When you come here, there are many people, and there is always something to do during the summer. Something interesting is happening.

Just when you think the coronavirus pandemic is over, prices are rising all over the world, and especially in the United States, the cost of gasoline, food, rental cars, and hotel stays have risen to an incomparable level, making it difficult to go on a surf trip. . However, California has a unique culture that fascinates us with its people, streets, beaches, cars, and fashion. Of course, the level of surfing is basically high, so it's really difficult to catch good waves at famous breaks like Malibu and Trestles. However, if you go to Sano, you will feel a peaceful atmosphere where everyone is encouraged to enjoy this time together. The beach has an atmosphere that is cherished by local surfers, and it is also a place where you can feel the history.