16th: Atsunori Aoki, BLUCO - Japanese Workwear in the Western Style
"BLUCO" from Japan is a brand of solid and sturdy Western-style workwear that is not swayed by fleeting fashion trends. It is loved not only by bikers and mechanics, but also by surfers, skaters, fashion insiders, and celebrities.
Mitch Abshere, founder of BEACHED DAYS, resonated with BLUCO's simple, essence-driven craftsmanship, leading to their first-ever collaboration.
This time, we interviewed Atsunori Aoki, the head of BLUCO, who is deeply passionate about motorcycles and surfing in his private life.
When did you first encounter "yokonori" (board sports)?
Since I'm from Fussa, Tokyo, skateboarding came first, but there wasn't a skate culture like there is now, so it was more like an extension of playing with roller skates. But even then, I felt the American influence. I started playing soccer in fifth grade and was part of the Yomiuri Club youth team, but when I entered high school, I quit sports and, well, my friends were a bad influence, so I spent my time riding motorcycles (laughs). At the same time, my involvement with board sports faded, and after graduation, I worked in the motorcycle industry.
I was in sales at the Japanese distributor for FOX, a motocross brand, and that company used to organize a motocross event called Japan Supercross at the National Stadium. So, looking back, I've always been involved with motorcycles and American culture. Even with BLUCO, it's a brand I started with inspiration from motorcycles and American cars, rather than board sports.
When did you start surfing?
When I turned 45, I decided I didn't want to continue working in Tokyo and wanted to move to the countryside. The question was, should I go to the beach or the mountains? And I thought, "I want to surf!" (laughs). As a boy, you always want to surf someday, don't you? So I just came out here, joined a surf team in Katsuura, and rode a super aggressive shortboard. In fact, after only two or three months, I was taken to Keramas in Bali and got a real baptism. It was like riding straight down huge dumpers (laughs).
Well, I started with shortboards without knowing anything, and then I met TAPPY (the shaper) and realized there's also a more relaxed, adult style. I gradually shifted, and before I knew it, alternative boards suited me better. There was a period where I kept switching between different boards, wondering what I was aiming for, but now, 17 years after starting surfing, I've finally settled on the idea that a glider is just fine!
How did BLUCO get started?
To study clothing, I even worked at a Gore-Tex subcontractor factory that made snow wear. Then, in 2006, at the recommendation of an acquaintance, I started a brand called OIL, which offered authentic workwear that hadn't existed in Japan before. However, getting a trademark was difficult, so in 2013, I re-launched it under the new name BLUCO. The origin is "blue-collar," but I also considered my own name's "BLUE TREE" or "BLUE WOOD," but they didn't quite fit. So, "Aoki Shoten's BLUE CO" became BLUCO (laughs).
When I look at BLUCO's items, I really feel the essence of traditional American blue-collar workwear that people use every day. What influences you personally?
I've spent extended periods in places like San Francisco, LA, and Venice in California, but when I actually go there, it feels like I already know it from magazines. In America, I'm drawn to inland areas, like Arkansas, where I traveled long ago, or perhaps the East Coast. I'm also influenced by movies like Taxi Driver and Leon, so I like New York and Chicago, as well as the old historical streetscapes of Europe.
BEACHED DAYS, reflecting Mitch Abshere's ideas, is collaborating with BLUCO for the first time.
Mitch Abshere is incredibly cool, and I love his style. The atmosphere of his shop (CAPTAINS HELM) is amazing, and his mafia-like visual is great too (laughs). He's in a league of his own. He's completely different from other surfers like Arch (Matt Archbold) with his tattoos, or Christian Fletcher. I'm honored to be able to collaborate.
Thank you. Finally, what does surfing mean to you?
Like motorcycling, it's a lifestyle now. Surfing isn't for health or anything; it's become a part of my daily life. Snowboarding, on the other hand, isn't something I do daily, so it remains a hobby. With motorcycles, it's not about wanting to go fast or owning expensive things. It's the same with surfing; it just feels good to ride. Sometimes when I can't get a satisfying ride, I feel like quitting (laughs).
Kosuke Aoki: Born in Fussa City, Tokyo in 1964, currently resides in Oami City, Chiba Prefecture. Focusing on the "minimum necessity" that arises from the lifestyles of his peers, he established HERMIT-SELECTION, primarily an OEM business, in Tokyo in 2004. In 2006, he launched his own brand, OIL WORK WEAR, later relocating to Isumi City, Chiba Prefecture, and rebranding as BLUCO. In 2010, he launched UNCROWD EYEWEAR.In 2018, he opened BLUCO STORE MEGURO, his first directly managed store.
https://https://www.blucoinc.jp/
Instagram: @bluco.inc_official, @blucoaoki